TL;DR

A watch needs two measurements to fit: lug width (the gap between the lugs where the strap attaches, almost always 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 24 mm) and length (S/M/L for leather straps, or link count for metal bracelets). Lug width is fixed by your watch — measure it with a caliper or look up your model. Length is adjustable: leather straps come in sizes, and metal bracelets are sized by removing links. At Bijouterie Jamil in Montréal we resize most watch bracelets in 15 minutes for $15–30 CAD, and we stock straps for every common lug width.

Table of contents

1. The two numbers that decide fit
2. How to find your lug width
3. Strap length: S, M, L for leather
4. Metal bracelets: link removal explained
5. Spring bars and the tools you need
6. Leather vs rubber vs steel bracelet vs NATO
7. When to bring it in (and what we charge)
8. Bjamil services for brand-name watches
9. FAQ

The two numbers that decide fit

Every watch strap or bracelet is described by two measurements. Get these right and the strap will fit. Get either one wrong and you will spend $40–$200 CAD on something that does not work.

Lug width is the distance, in millimetres, between the two lugs on your watch case — the prongs that the strap slides between. It is fixed. Your watch was built around that number and you cannot change it. Common lug widths in 2026 are 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, and 24 mm. Vintage and ladies' pieces sometimes drop to 14, 16, or 17 mm. Oversized divers can reach 26 mm.

Length is how far around your wrist the strap reaches. This one is adjustable. Leather straps are sold in sizes (Short, Medium, Long, sometimes XL). Metal bracelets are sized by removing or adding links until the bracelet sits snug but not tight. We will get into both below.

How to find your lug width

You have three ways to find your lug width, and we recommend doing two of them to confirm.

1. Look it up online. Type your brand, model, and reference number into a search like "Tudor Black Bay 41 lug width" and the answer will appear instantly. Manufacturers publish this. The reference number is engraved on the case back or between the lugs at 6 o'clock.

2. Measure with a digital caliper. Open the caliper jaws and slide them between the lugs from the inside, where the strap normally sits. Read the millimetre value. Calipers cost $15–25 CAD at any hardware store and are accurate to 0,1 mm. If your reading is 19,8 mm, the actual lug width is 20 mm — round to the nearest even number for modern watches.

3. Measure with a ruler. Put a millimetre ruler across the gap between the lugs. Less precise than a caliper but workable. If you read between 19 and 21, you are almost certainly at 20 mm.

If you do not own a caliper and the model is not online, drop the watch off at the store. We measure for free and tell you on the spot what strap will fit.

Strap length: S, M, L for leather

Leather, rubber, and silicone straps are not adjustable in the way bracelets are. They come in standard lengths and you pick the one that matches your wrist.

A standard leather strap is sold in two parts: the longer "12 o'clock" half (with the buckle hole) and the shorter "6 o'clock" half (with the buckle and pin). Total length is usually expressed as 115/75 mm (Short), 120/80 mm (Medium / standard), or 125/85 mm (Long). XL options run 130/90 mm and up.

To pick a size, measure your wrist with a soft tape or a strip of paper. Then: - Wrist 14–16 cm → Short strap - Wrist 16–18 cm → Medium strap (the default for most adults) - Wrist 18–20 cm → Long strap - Wrist 20+ cm → XL or two-piece custom

The strap should fasten on the third or fourth hole from the buckle, leaving room on either side for the leather to expand in summer humidity and contract in a Québec winter. If you are punching the very last hole to close it, the strap is too short.

Metal bracelets: link removal explained

Metal bracelets (steel, gold, two-tone) are sized by removing or adding links. Each link is held in place by a small pin or screw. The total number of links you remove determines how tight the bracelet sits.

Three things to know before you start:

1. Remove links evenly from both sides of the clasp. If your bracelet is too long by four links, take two from the 12 o'clock side and two from the 6 o'clock side. This keeps the clasp centred under your wrist. An off-centre clasp is the most common DIY mistake we see.

2. Pin direction matters. Most bracelets have arrows engraved on the inside of the links showing which direction to push the pin out. Push against the arrow and you will damage the link. Look first.

3. Some brands use screws, not pins. Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and most modern Swiss brands use screwed links. You need a small flathead — not a pin punch — and a vice or bracelet holder so you do not strip the head. A stripped screw on a Rolex bracelet is a $200+ CAD repair.

If the bracelet still does not fit perfectly after link removal, the clasp itself is usually micro-adjustable. Most modern divers' clasps have 4–6 micro-adjust holes that let you fine-tune the fit by 1–2 mm at a time. This is what lets you wear the watch tighter in winter and looser in summer when your wrist swells.

Spring bars and the tools you need

A spring bar is the small spring-loaded rod that holds your strap or bracelet between the lugs. It compresses when you push the ends in, and pops back out to lock in place.

To swap a strap, you need a spring bar tool — a small two-ended tool with a forked tip on one end and a pin on the other. The fork hooks under the spring bar's collar, you compress it, and the strap slides out. Spring bar tools cost $10–20 CAD. Bergeon makes the standard one used by every watchmaker, including us at the Bijouterie Jamil bench.

Cheap spring bar tool tips: - Always work over a soft cloth so a slipped tool does not gouge your case - Use the forked end on watches with traditional lugs, the pin end on watches with drilled lugs (where you push the spring bar out from the side) - Replace spring bars every few years — they fatigue, and a failed spring bar is how watches end up on the sidewalk

Drilled lugs are easier and safer to work on. If you change straps often, a watch with drilled lugs (or a quick-release spring bar) is a quality-of-life upgrade. Many newer Tudors, Hamiltons, and Seikos ship with quick-release straps that snap on and off without any tool at all.

Leather vs rubber vs steel bracelet vs NATO

Choosing the strap material is half style, half practicality. Here is how we explain the tradeoffs to clients at the store.

Leather — classic, dressy, most comfortable in cold weather. Patinas beautifully over a year or two. Hates water, sweat, and direct sun. A good calfskin strap lasts 1–3 years of daily wear before it cracks at the lug end. Alligator and shell cordovan last longer and cost more. Price range: $60–$400 CAD.

Rubber and silicone — best for sport, summer, and anyone who sweats through leather. Modern FKM rubber is soft, doesn't stink, and survives chlorine, salt water, and Montréal humidity. The right choice for divers and everyday wear in July. Price range: $40–$200 CAD.

Steel bracelet — the most durable option and what most luxury sports watches were designed around. Holds resale value. Heavier on the wrist (some people love this, others hate it). Adjustable by link removal as described above. A factory steel bracelet for a Rolex or Omega can cost $1,500–$5,000 CAD; aftermarket options start around $150 CAD.

NATO and single-pass straps — nylon webbing that slides under the spring bars in one continuous piece. Originally military issue, now standard for casual wear. Cheap ($15–50 CAD), tough, washable, and if a spring bar fails the watch still hangs on the strap. The downside is added thickness — a NATO sits the watch about 2 mm higher off the wrist, which can feel top-heavy on smaller cases.

For a Montréal climate where you go from –20 °C in February to humid summer afternoons, most of our clients end up with two straps for one watch: leather for the office, rubber or NATO for weekends.

When to bring it in (and what we charge)

A lot of strap and bracelet work is DIY-friendly. Some of it is not. Here is when we recommend bringing the watch into the store.

Bring it in for: - Sized link removal on any watch worth over $1,000 CAD. A $20 CAD service fee is much cheaper than replacing a damaged link. - Screwed-link bracelets (Rolex, Tudor, Omega, modern Swiss) — the screws strip easily without the right holder. - Vintage or ladies' watches under 18 mm lug width — sourcing the right strap is harder than swapping it. - Watches you are afraid to scratch. We use a Bergeon bracelet vice and lined jaws so the case never touches metal. - Spring bar replacement — if the bar feels loose, replace it before the watch falls.

Typical Bjamil pricing (2026): - Steel bracelet resizing (link removal/addition): $15–30 CAD - Spring bar replacement: $10–20 CAD per pair - Strap fitting (you bring the strap, we install it): $15 CAD - Custom strap sourcing for unusual lug widths: $40–250 CAD depending on material - Full bracelet refurbish (clean, polish, tighten): $80–200 CAD

Walk-ins for a quick resize are usually done while you wait, in 10–15 minutes. For more involved work — vintage bracelets, gold bracelets, or anything needing parts ordered — we will give you a written estimate before any work starts. See our broader jewellery repair services guide for how our bench process works.

Bjamil services for brand-name watches

We work on watches from every major Swiss and Japanese house: Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Breitling, TAG Heuer, Cartier, Longines, Tissot, Hamilton, Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, and more. For straps and bracelets specifically:

• Resizing — any steel, titanium, gold, or two-tone bracelet, including Rolex Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelets, Omega's various clasps, and Cartier's screw-link models.
• Strap replacement — we stock common widths in leather, rubber, and NATO, and we can order brand-original straps and clasps for warranty-conscious clients.
• Spring bar service — drilled and non-drilled lugs, including shoulderless bars for fitted bracelets.
• End link fitment — for aftermarket bracelets, we make sure the curved end links sit flush against the case before sending you home.

If you are buying a pre-owned watch from us, sizing is included. If you bought elsewhere and need help, walk in any day we are open. Most jobs are same-day. Anything that needs ordered parts is usually 5–10 business days.

For a deeper dive on watch ownership in general, see our guides on watch servicing and battery replacement and buying your first luxury watch in Quebec.

FAQ

How do I find the lug width on my watch? Look up your model and reference number online — manufacturers publish lug widths. Or measure between the lugs with a digital caliper from inside the strap channel. Lug widths are almost always even numbers: 18, 20, 22, 24 mm. If you read 19,8 mm, the answer is 20 mm.

Can I resize my own watch bracelet? Yes for pin-link bracelets if you have a small punch and a steady hand. We recommend not for screwed-link bracelets (Rolex, Omega, Tudor, etc.) — strip a screw and the repair costs more than a professional resize. Pricing at Bijouterie Jamil starts at $15 CAD.

How tight should a watch fit? You should be able to slide one finger between the bracelet and your wrist with mild resistance. The watch head should sit on top of your wrist, not slide around to the side. Your wrist swells a bit through the day, so size for late afternoon, not first thing in the morning.

What is the most common lug width? 20 mm is by far the most common modern lug width, used on most 38–42 mm watches. 22 mm is the next most common, used on larger sport and dive watches. 18 mm is standard for smaller dress and ladies' watches.

Do all leather straps fit all watches? No — the strap's lug width must match your watch exactly. A 20 mm strap will not fit a 22 mm watch, and forcing a wider strap into a narrower lug gap will damage both. Always check the lug width first.

How much does it cost to replace a watch strap in Montréal? At Bijouterie Jamil, basic strap fitting is $15 CAD if you bring the strap. Sourcing and installing a new leather, rubber, or NATO strap typically runs $40–250 CAD all in, depending on material. Brand-original straps for Swiss watches run higher.

Why do my spring bars keep falling out? Either the spring bar is fatigued (replace it — they have a service life), the lug holes are worn, or the bar is the wrong length for the lug gap. Bring the watch in. We carry replacement spring bars in every common size and check fit before sending you home.

Can you resize a Rolex or Omega bracelet at Bijouterie Jamil? Yes. We service screwed-link bracelets from Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Breitling, Cartier, and other Swiss brands daily. Bring proof of ownership for any pre-owned Rolex. Resizing typically takes 15 minutes and costs $20–30 CAD.

What's a NATO strap and is it good for a luxury watch? A NATO is a one-piece nylon strap that passes under both spring bars. It is durable, washable, and adds a casual military-inspired look. It is fine on a luxury watch from a wear standpoint, though it raises the watch off the wrist by about 2 mm and changes the dressy character of the piece. Good for weekends, less appropriate for a dress watch in a formal setting.

Visit us

If you are unsure of your lug width, can't get a stuck pin out, or want help choosing a strap that suits both the watch and your wrist, walk into our Montréal showroom. We measure for free, we resize bracelets while you wait, and we keep straps in stock for every common size. Book a private consultation if your watch is vintage, high-value, or needs custom work.

About the author

Ziko Khazzoum is the second-generation owner and CEO of Bijouterie Jamil in Montréal. He specializes in luxury watches, watch servicing, and gold buying through the family's Cash4Gold operation, and has been advising Québec collectors for over two decades.