TL;DR
Platinum lasts the longest. It's the densest white metal, naturally hypoallergenic, and it doesn't wear away — it develops a patina. White gold is yellow gold mixed with a white alloy and then plated with rhodium; you'll need to re-plate it every 1 to 3 years ($60–$120 CAD at our bench). Sterling silver is too soft and tarnishes too fast to serve as a daily-wear engagement ring — keep it for occasional jewellery. In Montréal in 2026, we recommend platinum for a piece you'll wear for 50 years, 14K white gold for the best value, and silver for fun.
Table of contents
- What these three metals actually are
- White gold: the truth about rhodium
- Platinum: why it feels heavier in your hand
- Sterling silver: where it shines, where it fails
- Allergies, nickel, and sensitive skin
- Real Quebec prices in 2026
- When to choose which
- FAQ
- Visit us
1. What these three metals actually are
All three are "white metals," but they have almost nothing in common chemically. This is the first thing we explain at the bench — because confusing the three is what causes most bad buying decisions.
White gold is not a natural metal. It's yellow gold (the only colour gold exists in pure form) mixed with white alloy metals — palladium, nickel, silver, or zinc — and then coated with a thin layer of rhodium to get that mirror-white look. 14K white gold is 58.5% pure gold; 18K is 75%.
Platinum is a naturally white-grey metal, used in fine jewellery at 950 parts per thousand (95% pure platinum, 5% alloy — usually iridium or ruthenium). It's rarer than gold and noticeably denser.
Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. That's the "925" stamp you'll see on the inside of every piece. It's beautiful, affordable, but much softer than the other two and chemically unstable in air.
2. White gold: the truth about rhodium
Here's what the chains won't tell you plainly. White gold, underneath its plating, isn't actually white. It's a pale yellow or yellow-grey, depending on the alloy. Rhodium — a platinum-group metal — gets applied by electroplating in a layer about 0.75 to 1 micron thick to give that bright white finish.
That layer wears off. Not in a month, not in a year, but over 12 to 36 months depending on how you wear the piece. On a daily-wear ring that hits keyboards, steering wheels, and kitchen sinks, you'll see the warmer tone start to show through, especially under the band and around the head. That's normal. It's not a defect.
The real cost: a rhodium re-plate at our shop runs $60 to $120 CAD depending on the piece (plain band vs. pavé-set mounting). Plan on 5 to 7 business days. Over 30 years of daily wear, that's roughly $1,200 to $2,000 in maintenance — a number nobody mentions at the moment of sale.
White gold is gorgeous, lighter than platinum, and costs about 30 to 40% less to buy. For many couples, it's still the right call. But you should know the maintenance bill before you sign.
3. Platinum: why it feels heavier in your hand
The first time we hand a customer a platinum ring, the reaction is almost always the same: "Wow, that's heavy." It is. Platinum has a density of 21.45 g/cm³ versus 19.3 for pure gold and 10.5 for silver. An identical ring will weigh roughly 60% more in platinum than in 14K white gold.
That density changes everything. Platinum doesn't wear away like gold — when you hit the band against a doorframe, the metal doesn't disappear, it moves. That's what we call patina: a soft, satin texture that builds up over time. A lot of clients love it. If you prefer the original mirror finish, we re-polish for $60 to $100 — and unlike rhodium, there's nothing to "re-plate." It's pure metal at the surface, and we just bring it back to a shine.
Platinum is also naturally hypoallergenic. At 950 parts per thousand with iridium or ruthenium alloy, there's no nickel and no copper — the two main culprits behind skin reactions. For a bride with sensitive skin who's wearing the ring of her life, that's often the deciding factor.
The downside: price. In Montréal in 2026, platinum trades around $1,200 to $1,600 CAD per ounce versus $3,000 to $3,200 for pure gold — so the raw metal is actually cheaper. But because of the density (60% heavier) and the difficulty of working it (melting point at 1,768°C versus 1,064°C for gold), the finished price of a platinum engagement ring is generally 40 to 70% higher than the equivalent in 14K white gold.
4. Sterling silver: where it shines, where it fails
Sterling silver 925 has its place — but not everywhere. On the Mohs hardness scale, silver sits around 2.5 to 3, versus 4 for 14K gold and 4 to 4.5 for platinum. In practice: it scratches with a key, deforms under pressure, and a size 7 silver band worn for five years will turn slightly oval.
That's why we strongly advise against silver for an engagement ring or daily-wear wedding band. Not because it's less beautiful — because it won't last. On a prong-set mounting, silver prongs lose their tension within 18 to 24 months and the stone falls out.
Where silver excels: pendants, earrings, bracelets, chains, and fashion rings. These are pieces that don't take the constant pressure of an active finger. For a budget of $80 to $400 CAD, you can get beautiful, durable silver jewellery — provided you clean it.
Silver tarnishes. It's pure chemistry: silver reacts with sulphur in the air (pollution, eggs, certain shampoos) and forms a black layer of silver sulphide. It's not rust, and it's reversible. An $8 polishing cloth or a quick home soak brings the shine back in minutes. But you have to actually do it — otherwise, in six months, your chain will look grey.
5. Allergies, nickel, and sensitive skin
This is the topic where customers get the most bad information online. Here are the facts.
Nickel is the main jewellery allergen. In Canada, unlike the European Union, there's no law (yet) limiting nickel content in jewellery. American and Asian white gold alloys often use nickel as the whitening agent — not out of malice, but because it's effective and cheap. If costume jewellery makes your earlobes itch, nickel is almost certainly the cause.
Nickel-free white gold exists. It's called "palladium white gold" or "nickel-free white gold." The whitening agent is palladium instead of nickel. It costs about 15 to 25% more, and at Bijouterie Jamil it's our default for any custom piece destined for a customer with sensitive skin. Ask for it explicitly.
Platinum: zero nickel, zero copper. Even the most reactive skin tolerates it. That's why high-end baby rings and children's earrings are often platinum.
Sterling silver: the 7.5% copper content can cause a faint green discolouration on some acidic skin types — that's cosmetic, not a real allergy, and it washes off. True silver allergies exist but are extremely rare.
If you know you have a sensitivity, tell us before we order the alloy. Re-melting a ring after delivery to fix an allergy issue costs $250 to $600.
6. Real Quebec prices in 2026
Here's what we're charging at the shop in April 2026 for comparable pieces. All prices include labour, exclude taxes, and exclude the centre stone.
| Piece (no centre stone) | Sterling 925 | 14K White Gold | 950 Platinum |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain 2 mm band | $80 – $150 | $550 – $850 | $1,100 – $1,600 |
| 4 mm comfort-fit band | $120 – $220 | $900 – $1,400 | $1,800 – $2,800 |
| 6-prong solitaire mounting | not recommended | $850 – $1,400 | $1,600 – $2,600 |
| Half-eternity pavé | not recommended | $1,800 – $3,200 | $3,200 – $5,200 |
Add 14.975% GST + QST in Quebec. These prices move with the spot market — for an exact quote, we check the day's spot at the shop and calculate by the gram.
Over the long term, here's the honest 30-year math on a daily-wear ring:
- 14K white gold: $1,200 purchase + ~$1,500 in rhodium re-plating (10–15 times) = ~$2,700
- Platinum: $2,000 purchase + ~$400 in occasional polishing = ~$2,400
So platinum isn't always more expensive over time — it's only more expensive to buy.
7. When to choose which
Choose platinum if it's an engagement ring or wedding band you plan to wear daily for decades, you have sensitive skin, you like the idea of a living patina rather than a perfect finish, or you intend to pass the piece down.
Choose 14K white gold if you want the platinum look at a lower purchase price, you don't have a nickel allergy (or you specifically request palladium white gold), you're fine with rhodium re-plating every 1 to 3 years, and you prefer a lighter ring on the finger.
Choose 18K white gold if you want higher gold purity (75%) for investment or tradition reasons, you accept that it's slightly softer than 14K, and you can pay 25 to 35% more.
Choose sterling silver if it's an occasional piece, a fashion gift, an evening accessory, an earring, or a pendant. Never for a daily-wear band, never for a prong-set mounting.
For a deeper dive on gold alloys, read our complete guide to gold karats. To understand how metal choice affects an engagement ring decision, see how to choose an engagement ring. For ongoing care of each metal, check why your jewellery tarnishes and our home cleaning guide. And if an existing ring is wearing or bothering you, see our repair services.
FAQ
Why is my white gold turning yellow? The surface rhodium has worn off and the yellower underlying alloy is showing through. It's normal and reversible — a re-plate brings back the original white. Plan on $60 to $120 CAD at our shop, in 5 to 7 business days.
How often should I re-plate a white gold ring? Every 12 to 36 months for a daily-wear ring. An evening ring worn occasionally can go 5 to 10 years between re-plates.
Does platinum scratch more than white gold? Platinum shows scratches more visibly because the metal moves rather than wears off. But you don't lose any mass — a polish brings back the original shine. After 30 years, your platinum ring will weigh almost the same as the day you bought it.
Does white gold cause allergies? Only if the alloy contains nickel. Ask for "palladium white gold" or "nickel-free white gold." Platinum and palladium white gold cause no skin reactions.
Can I wear a sterling silver ring every day? We strongly advise against silver as an engagement ring or wedding band. It's too soft; it'll deform and the prongs will loosen within two years. Keep silver for occasional pieces.
Can I shower with my white gold or platinum? Plain water alone is fine. But soap, shampoo, pool chlorine, and salt water all accelerate rhodium wear and can dull settings. We recommend taking the ring off for showers, pools, and the ocean. For silver, it's non-negotiable — chlorinated water and the sulphates in shampoo will tarnish it within hours.
Is platinum really worth the higher purchase price? Yes for a ring you'll wear daily for decades. Over 30 years, total white gold cost (purchase + re-platings) approaches the platinum purchase price. And you keep 100% of your metal, with no scheduled maintenance.
Can I convert an old silver ring into white gold? No — the metals don't mix and silver can't be permanently plated under gold. We can rebuild the same design in gold using a mould of the existing piece. Plan on $600 to $1,400 depending on the model.
Ready to pick the right metal for your ring?
Stop by the shop on Sainte-Catherine Street or book an appointment online. We'll let you try the same ring in white gold, palladium white gold, and platinum side by side — the weight, the colour, and the feel in your hand will give you the answer in 30 seconds. No commitment, coffee on us.
About the author Nader Khazzoum is a master jeweller at Bijouterie Jamil, the family-owned Montréal workshop in business for over 60 years. Specialized in custom fabrication, stone setting, and laser welding, Nader hand-makes hundreds of engagement rings and wedding bands every year in white gold, platinum, and palladium.
