TL;DR

A karat (K) measures how much pure gold is in your piece, out of 24 parts. 10K is 41.7% gold, 14K is 58.5%, 18K is 75%, and 22K is 91.7%. Higher karat means more pure gold and a richer yellow colour, but also a softer metal. In Quebec, most engagement rings we sell at Bijouterie Jamil are 14K white gold — it gives you the best balance of durability, colour, and price.

Table of contents

1. What "karat" actually means
2. The math: parts per 24
3. 10K: the everyday workhorse
4. 14K: the Quebec standard
5. 18K: the luxury choice
6. 22K: investment and cultural pieces
7. Yellow, white, rose: how colour works
8. Hallmark stamps and how to read them
9. Which karat is right for you?
10. FAQ

What "karat" actually means

Karat (spelled with a K) measures gold purity. It is not the same as "carat" with a C, which measures the weight of a diamond. We get this question every week at the store, so do not feel bad if you have mixed them up — the words sound identical in English and French.

Pure gold is 24 karat. That means 24 out of 24 parts are gold, with no other metal mixed in. The problem is that pure gold is too soft to wear every day. A 24K ring would bend on your finger inside a year. So jewellers mix gold with other metals — copper, silver, palladium, zinc — to create an alloy that holds its shape, takes a polish, and resists scratches.

The number in front of the K tells you how much of that mix is actually gold. The rest is the alloy.

The math: parts per 24

Here is the simple formula. Take your karat number, divide by 24, and you get the percentage of pure gold:

• 10K → 10 ÷ 24 = 41.7% pure gold (millesimal fineness 417)
• 14K → 14 ÷ 24 = 58.5% pure gold (fineness 585)
• 18K → 18 ÷ 24 = 75.0% pure gold (fineness 750)
• 22K → 22 ÷ 24 = 91.7% pure gold (fineness 916)
• 24K → 24 ÷ 24 = 99.9% pure gold (fineness 999)

The "millesimal fineness" number is the same purity expressed in parts per thousand. You will see it stamped on European pieces and on any gold bullion. A 14K ring stamped "585" and a 14K ring stamped "14K" are the exact same metal. Canada accepts both stamping conventions under the federal Precious Metals Marking Act.

10K: the everyday workhorse

10K is the lowest karat that can legally be sold as "gold" in Canada and the United States. With less than half its weight in pure gold, it is harder, more scratch-resistant, and significantly cheaper than higher karats.

Where 10K shines: - Children's jewellery and graduation gifts - Men's wedding bands that take daily abuse - Chains worn under a shirt every day - Class rings, signet rings, anything that needs to survive years of contact

The tradeoff: the colour is paler. A 10K yellow gold ring next to an 18K yellow gold ring looks almost greenish-pale by comparison. People with metal sensitivities sometimes react to 10K because there is more nickel or copper in the alloy. If your skin turns green under a ring, the alloy is the reason — not the gold.

14K: the Quebec standard

If you walked into ten jewellery stores in Montréal and asked what most engagement rings are made of, nine of them would say 14K white gold. There is a reason for that.

14K hits the sweet spot. At 58.5% gold, it has a clear, warm yellow tone (or a bright neutral white once rhodium-plated), it stands up to daily wear, and it costs roughly 25% less than the same ring in 18K. For a $5,000 CAD engagement ring, that difference can be $1,000 or more — enough to upgrade the diamond by half a colour grade.

We hand-fabricate most of our custom engagement rings in 14K because it is also easier to work with at the bench. It holds prongs tightly, takes a high polish, and resists the small dings that come from typing, gardening, or carrying groceries. For a Montréal winter — gloves on and off, dry indoor air, salt on the sidewalks — 14K is the right call for almost everyone.

18K: the luxury choice

18K is what most European luxury houses use. At 75% pure gold, the yellow is unmistakably rich, the rose is warmer, and the white (when alloyed with palladium) has a softer sheen than 14K.

Where 18K makes sense: - Statement engagement rings where colour matters more than ruggedness - Anniversary jewellery and heirloom pieces - Anyone with mild metal sensitivity (less alloy = fewer reactive metals) - Buyers who want resale value to track gold's spot price more closely

The tradeoff: 18K is noticeably softer than 14K. Prongs wear faster. Edges round off sooner. If you wear an 18K ring at a desk job, you will likely want it polished and re-tipped every 3–5 years instead of every 7–10. It also costs more — typically 30–40% more than the equivalent 14K piece.

22K: investment and cultural pieces

22K is rare in North American jewellery stores but standard in South Asian and Middle Eastern markets. At 91.7% pure gold, it is too soft for most Western settings — a 22K solitaire ring would deform on a normal hand. But 22K is the dominant choice for traditional Indian, Pakistani, Sri Lankan, and Gulf-region wedding sets, where the gold itself is part of the dowry and the value.

We see 22K most often in two situations:

1. Investment pieces: clients who want to hold gold as a store of value, in a wearable form. The gold content tracks the spot price of gold almost dollar for dollar, so when you sell or melt it, you recover most of what you paid. See our guide on selling gold in Montréal for how this works in practice.
2. Cultural and heirloom pieces: bangles, chains, pendants brought in for repair, resizing, or appraisal. Working on 22K requires laser welding and a delicate hand — the metal is closer to butter than steel.

If you are buying 22K specifically as an investment, talk to us about Cash4Gold and our investment-grade gold options. For most other buyers, 22K is too soft for everyday wear.

Yellow, white, rose: how colour works

Karat tells you how much gold is in the alloy. Colour tells you what the gold is alloyed with. Same karat can come in three colours, and they are all equally "real" gold:

• Yellow gold — gold + copper + silver. The traditional, warm tone.
• White gold — gold + palladium (or nickel) + zinc, then plated with rhodium for a bright finish. The rhodium is a thin surface layer that wears off every 1–2 years and needs replating. We do this in-house for $80–$150 CAD depending on the piece.
• Rose gold — gold + a higher proportion of copper. The pink tone comes entirely from copper content.

Important: the karat is the same regardless of colour. 14K yellow, 14K white, and 14K rose all contain 58.5% pure gold. Only the supporting alloy changes.

This is also why white gold "yellows" over time. The gold underneath the rhodium plating is actually a pale buttery colour, not bright white. As the rhodium wears, the warmer base shows through. It is not a defect — it is physics. A quick replate at the shop puts it right.

Hallmark stamps and how to read them

Every legitimate piece of gold jewellery sold in Canada should carry a hallmark — a tiny stamp on the inside of a ring band, on the clasp of a chain, or on the back of a pendant. You may need a loupe to read it.

Common stamps you will see: - 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K, 24K — North American convention - 417, 585, 750, 916, 999 — millesimal fineness, European convention - GF or GP — gold-filled or gold-plated, not solid gold - HGE — heavy gold electroplate, also not solid gold - A maker's mark — the manufacturer's registered symbol

If you see a stamp like "14K GF," that is gold-filled, not solid 14K. The piece has a layer of gold bonded over a base metal core. Gold-filled is more durable than gold-plated, but it is not the same as solid gold and does not carry the same intrinsic value. If you are not sure what you have, bring it in — we test for free at the store.

Which karat is right for you?

A short decision guide based on the customers we see every week at our Montréal showroom:

• Engagement ring, daily wear → 14K white or yellow. Quebec standard for a reason.
• Engagement ring, you want maximum colour and luxury feel → 18K, accept the maintenance.
• Men's wedding band, active lifestyle → 10K or 14K, never 18K for a knockabout band.
• Children's first chain or pendant → 10K, both for cost and durability.
• Heirloom or anniversary statement piece → 18K.
• Investment, buy and hold → 22K or higher (or actual bullion — talk to Ziko about Cash4Gold).
• Allergy-prone skin → 18K with palladium white gold, or platinum (see our guide on white gold vs platinum vs silver).

There is no single right answer. The right karat is the one that matches how you actually live, what you can comfortably spend, and how often you want to bring the piece in for service.

FAQ

Is 18K gold worth the upgrade over 14K? For a wedding band you wear every day, usually no — 14K is harder and holds up better. For a statement piece or an heirloom you want to pass down, often yes. The colour is richer and the gold content is higher.

Why is my white gold turning yellow? White gold is rhodium-plated over a naturally pale yellow alloy. The rhodium wears off in 1–2 years and the warmer base shows through. Bring it in for a replating — we do it in-house in 3–5 business days, typically $80–$150 CAD.

Can I wear 14K gold in the shower or pool? Shower yes, pool no. Chlorine attacks the alloy metals (copper, zinc) over time and can cause prongs to fail. Salt water is fine occasionally but rinse afterwards. See our guide on how to clean fine jewellery at home.

What does "585" mean on my ring? It is the European stamp for 14K gold — 585 parts pure gold per 1,000. Same metal as a "14K" stamped ring, just different convention.

Is 22K gold a good investment? 22K holds value closer to spot gold price than 14K or 18K because it has more gold per gram. It is harder to wear daily, so most North American buyers either invest in bullion directly or hold 22K in heirloom form. Talk to us about Cash4Gold for current rates.

Does higher karat mean better quality? No. Higher karat means more pure gold, not better craftsmanship. A well-made 14K ring is a better piece than a poorly made 18K ring. Look at the soldering, the prong tips, and the polish — those tell you the quality of the work.

How do I know my gold is real? Look for a hallmark stamp (10K, 14K, 18K, 585, 750, etc.). If you cannot find one or you bought the piece secondhand, bring it in. We test gold for free using both acid and electronic testers.

Will 10K gold make my finger turn green? It can, in some people. The copper and nickel in the 10K alloy can react with skin acidity or sweat. If this happens, switching to 14K or 18K usually fixes it, since there is less alloy metal to react.

Visit us

If you are choosing a karat for an engagement ring, an heirloom resize, or a custom piece, the easiest way to decide is to hold all four side by side under good light. We keep loose 10K, 14K, 18K, and 22K samples at the bench for exactly this. Book a private consultation at our Montréal showroom and we will walk you through it.

About the author

Nader Khazzoum is a master jeweller and second-generation owner of Bijouterie Jamil in Montréal. He specializes in custom fabrication, stone setting, and laser welding, and has worked at the bench for over 20 years.